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Costa
Blanca Spain
Costa Blanca extends along
that section of the Mediterranean coast which corresponds to the
province of Alicante, is made up of two clearly differentiated scenic
sectors.
To the North, a curtain of mountains runs parallel to the sea,
descending at times to form cliffs; to the South, a vast plain of sand
patches, palm trees and salt deposits make up the backdrop for the
beaches.
The traveller can choose any of the corners of this coast, from the
most bustling and cosmopolitan to those which still maintain their
rural air beside the sea. In any case, the trip to the nearby regions
is well worth the venture for they make up a fine representation of
the typical Mediterranean countryside.
From the valleys, which are covered with stepped orchards and keep
alive its Moorish past, to the palm trees of unmistakable African
origin, the
horizons of the Costa Blanca offer the most varied attractions.
The climate offers variations as well. The temperatures are usually
mild -the annual average is a little higher than 17ºC- and rain is
scare, though the pluvosity is logically higher in the mountainous
northern sector, in comparison with the lowlands which surround Elche
and Orihuela. The fields of almond trees, the vineyards, the fruit
orchards and the magnificent palm trees form a vegetation which
emphasises the oriental nature of the landscape.
The Coastal Route:
From Denia to El Pilar de la Horadada the trip along the coast is a
very pleasant car ride. Of course, our advice is to leave the motorway
for more urgent journeys and take the national highway which runs
almost entirely along the sea.
The city, presided over by a castle which enjoys a splendid view,
unfolds in a clearly urban ambience, though it still preserves
intimate little corners in the fishing quarters of Baix la Marand Les
Roques, near the fortress. The Church of Santa Maria, of the 17C, is
its most outstanding sight. The surrounding present several spots of
enormous interest: the view from the Torre (Tower) del Gerro, a
watchtower, erected in the 17C, six kilometres from Denia heading in
the direction of San Antonio, certainly deserves a visit.
Both to the North as well as the South, the Denia littoral is made up
of fine beaches. In order to enjoy the Mediterranean countryside in
one of its best versions, we suggest that the traveller go to the Cabo
de San Antonio: from here, with the Sierra de Montgo mountains in the
background, to the Cabo de La Nao, the journey leads through cliffs,
mountains, coves and along the sea.
Also at the foot of the Montgo range and extending along the strip of
coastline between the Cabo de San Antonio and San Martin Cave is Javea
(nine kilometres from Denia). However, the traveller will understand
why this town has been traditionally chosen by visitors from all over
Europe in order to enjoy a privileged retirement.
The centre of town, located inland, preserves among its popular
constructions, a fortress-like church and a Gothic façade. At the
other end of the Javea cove, today occupied by modern buildings, is
the rocky section of the coast which extends as far as Cabo de la Nao,
with the little island of Portichol opposite.
Natural caves exist within the cliffs, which can be visited by using
precarious ladders; the caves are known, because of their dangerous
conditions, as pesqueras de la muerte (fishing grounds of death).
Heading inland in this region, the traveller will find, among the
vineyards and fields, some fine examples of riu-rau, a popular type of
dwelling preceded by an arcaded front which has inspired many of the
villas that have been constructed more recently. 15km from Javea is
Moraira, an old fishing port protected against pirates by an old
castle and watch-tower.
Further inland there is Benissa and the lovely layout of its streets
and houses. From there a pleasant road leads through La Fustera an
interesting tourist resort - and then to Calpe (about 10km away) at
the foot of the Penon de Ifach, a rock jutting out from the sea and
classified as a nature park today. The Penon (or rock), joined to the
mainland by a narrow isthmus, is one of the most characteristic views
of the Costa Blanca. On both sides, there are two small coves with
highly recommended beaches.
From here, the coastal itinerary follows the national road.
About four kilometres from Calpe is the Mascarat tunnel which crosses
one of the rockiest foothills of the Bernia Sierra. At the exit of the
tunnel, we suggest that the traveller pause for a few moments to
admire this section of the littoral where the sea takes on a very
profound shade of blue. Very close by, near Olla de Altea (a rural
district which precedes the actual town of Altea), is, to the right, a
detour which leads to Altea la Vieja (Altea the Old) and Castell de
Guadalest. This is one of the most beautiful excursions to be made in
the province. But let us continue along the coast for the moment.
Altea is now very close and our advice is to leave the car in any of
the streets which branch off from the main road and begin a long,
leisurely walk through the part of the recently built sector. The old
section is perched on top of a hill from which a splendid view can be
had. The ascent, along steep slopes and stepped streets, reveals a
broad horizon at every turn and extends along the entire La Marina
region: the silhouette of the Penon de Ifach on one side and the
Helade range on the other, frame the view of the sea, with the gulls
sweeping low over the town. Heading inland, the Bernia range runs
perpendicular to the coast and very close the village.
The orange orchards and almond tree fields spread out towards the
South, with the massive Puig Campana forming the backdrop. A small
parish church is located at the highest point of the town, crowned
with a tiled dome, constituting one of the most representative views
of Altea.
If we return to the lower part of the town, the traveller will find a
couple of establishments, which have been there forever, where one can
sample an excellent paella cooked over a wood fire or simply have a
glass of local wine under the shade of an umbrella, with the shining
sea below. A recently inaugurated esplanade, flanked by outdoor bars
and restaurants, is a delightful place to stop and relax.
Eight kilometres from Altea, heading inland, is Polop, a small town
surrounded by orchards and pine groves, which is highly recommended
for those who seek peace and quiet and cool summer nights.
From the Via Crucis which presides over the town, one can obtain a
splendid view of the surrounding valleys, which owe their present
appearance to the work of the Morisco farmers many years ago. A narrow
local road will take us very soon to Xirles, a village in which we can
enjoy some excellent paellas under the shade of leafy old trees.
The fountains of Polop, Xirles and the nearby village of La Nucia have
always made this area an ideal destination for brief excursions. Very
close to Polop on the way to the coast, there is La Alfas del Pi with
its splendid beach called Albir.
Benidorm, the next stop on our itinerary, can be reached via Altea or
directly from Polop. Here the first visit should be to the small
section of old streets which was all that existed of todays busy
tourist centre only three decades ago.
The Balcony of the Mediterranean is an observation platform which sits
on the site of a no longer existing fortress and it affords a
magnificent view of the Levante and Poniente beaches and the nearby
island of Benidorm.
The maritime esplanade which runs parallel to the Levante beach, the
urban developments of tall skyscrapers and the incredible
proliferation of shops, restaurants, outdoor cafes, ice-cream parlours,
discotheques and a general variety of entertainment establishments are
a show in and by themselves for the traveller.
The people who sit at the out door tables lining the main avenues in
the summer are also a part of the landscape which characterises the
major tourist resorts during the summer months.
10 km from Benidorm is Villajoyosa, where there is a considerable
fishing fleet. Near the port, in the lower part of town, is a very
pleasant esplanade shaded by palm trees and flanked by old façades
which have been painted with bright colours.
The combinations of ochres, reds, yellows and aniline blues are
repeated in the houses which appear to be suspended over the dry bed
of the river, another of the most characteristic sights of Villajoyosa.
On the way inland very near Villajoyosa, there is Finestrat. In its
vicinity Mount Puig Campana is an impressive sight in the heart of
Aitana Sierra.
17km away is a turn-off on the right which leads to Aguas de Busot
near which is an ancient spa, closed nowadays and surrounded by pines.
Eight kilometres further on is Busot, and ten more, on the slopes of
Cabeco d Or, are the Camllobre Caves which contain a big room filled
with fascinating calcareous formations. If we return to our starting
point, the traveller can choose to continue in the direction of
Alicante along the inland route (15 km) or head towards the beaches of
El Campello, Muchavista and San Juan, which have been entirely
urbanised. The highway continues to La Albufereta, leaving the Cape of
Las Huertas with its tiny intimate coves on the left.
The Albufera is almost an integral quarter now of the city of Alicante.
We enter the city with the Postiguet beach on one side and the rocky
mountains, crowned by the Santa Barbara castle, on the other. Once
again, we suggest that the traveller park his car and begin on foot
the visit to the sunny city, amidst ever-present palm trees and the
sea.
The Castle, which can be reached by an elevator, offers a complete
view of the town, the port and the Paseo de la Explanada. The Church
of Santa Maria with its representative of the Valencia Baroque style
and set in the heart of the old quarter, the Town Hall, the church of
San Nicolas and the mannerist and Baroque façades of the buildings on
Labradores Street are the main monumental landmarks in this city. They
are all located within a limited space in the old section.
The Rambla, perpendicular to La Explanada and also lined with palm
trees, is the main thoroughfare in Alicante´s daily life. We suggest
that the traveller sample a refreshing glass of horchata (a drink made
from earth almonds) in one of the outdoor cafes or ice-cream parlours
which line these two avenues, before he continues on his way.
We can take the same national highway heading in the direction of
Murcia.
Soon after we leave Alicante, a turn-off announced the city of Elche;
but we will visit this city when we cover the inland route. Passing
some flat country, which was a salt deposit up until only recently, we
come to Santa Pola. There is a broad beach on the left -Los Arenales
del Sol- backed by a section of sand dunes.
Santa Pola is only 18km from Alicante and it fishing port has always
enjoyed an excellent reputation, thanks to the magnificent prawns and
red mullet which are brought in by the fishing boats. Though the wave
of summer vacationers has reached this town as well, it has still
managed to preserve all of the noisy and traditional ambience of the
ancient Lonjas (Commodity Exchanges) in the daily sales of the fish
which are taken right off the boats.
In the heart of town, an ancient fortress built in the 16C reminds of
the times when Santa Pola served as the port for Elche and it was
always threatened by Berber attacks. The Cape of Sant Pola, near the
town, offers a very broad view of the area and the nearby island of
Tabarca.
If the traveller noted a sharp change in the scenery -to flat plains-
when he left Alicante the section of land which separates Santa Pola
from Guardamar del Segura is surely a fine example of the horizon
which characterises the Vega Baja. An extension of salt deposits
located near the endless beaches defines this land which at some
points is even below sea level.
Guardamar, standing out on a long beach, is surrounded by sand dunes
covered with pines, eucalyptus and bushes. Just 15km further to the
South is Torrevieja, near the vast salt deposits which once
constituted one of the main sources of income in this province. The
gleaming flooded land which takes on unique tones at dusk and the
blinding white mountains of salt offer a unique and immensely
attractive landscape.
Torrevieja also has a popular yacht and fishing harbour. Very close by
are the beaches of Orihuela; Punta Prima, Playa Flamenca, Cabo Roig,
La Zenia, Dehesa de Campoamor and El Pilar de la Horadada.
Denia and the Valleys.
The excursion which we are proposing first cuts through the old
Marquisate of Denia. The landscape is mountainous and bears the traces
of the presence of the Moriscos and it is perhaps the most
representative of the inland regions.
A local highway which skirts the coast will lead the traveller to Pego,
passing Safari Park on the right. Pego, (about 2km from Denia) is an
important farming community, dedicated chiefly to the growing of rice
and citrus fruits. From here, the itinerary will follow the local road
3311 through the mountains and past tiny towns, which guard some
reminder of their Moorish past. Al Azraq was born here in the 13C, an
almost legendary figure who fought against the troops of Jaime I at
the Alcoy ramparts. According to tradition, which is perpetuated in
the Fiestas de Moros y Cristianos, San Jorge de Capodocia was
responsible for obtaining the victory for the Christian King. The
slopes covered with fig, cherry, olive and almond trees, vineyards and
he ruins of fortresses define the horizon in these silent valleys.
Planes (30km from Pego) is the next stop on our trip. Just before we
reach the town, the highway runs past Barranco de la Encantada, one of
the most beautiful settings in the entire area. The town, located on
the slopes of a hill and at the foot of a castle, is a faithful
reminder of medieval urbanism. Some mansions and the small retables of
tile which make up the Via Crucis are the most characteristic tourist
features of Planes. Near the town, in a shady and cool setting, is the
16C or 17C aqueduct with Gothic arches, which is a delightful corner
to spend some free time.
Further on, in the same direction and crossing national highway 340,
the traveller will come to Agres (about 15km away) at the foot of the
Sierra de Mariola. Soon after, and worthy of a stop, is Frare (Fraile-Friar)
de Agres, a rock of an unusual shape, from which a spring of thermal
waters flows surrounded by lush vegetation. Once in the town, the
traveller should begin the ascent of the Stations of the cross, which
offer a splendid view. At the highest point is a small convent -La
Mare de Deu dAgres- which, according to tradition, is located on a
site which was miraculously selected by the image which is worshipped
there.
The surroundings of Agres have always been popular among hikers. In
addition to real botanical rarities, such as the small forest of yews
which are reputed to be the most southerly in Europe, to the caves
which were used to store snow until the summer in another period pous
de la neu, any corner can be the setting for a most pleasant stroll.
The proximity of Mariola, on whose slopes a great variety of aromatic
plants grow, is also highly recommended area of nature.
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